Life Cycle Of The Flower

Flowers, also called blooms or blossoms, is the reproductive organs of the plant. The basic function of a flower is to precipitate the blending of the male sperm with female ovum to produce seeds and propagate the species. The basic process starts with pollination, which in turn causes fertilization, and this leads to the formation of the seeds. There are various ways that a plant causes dispersal of it's seeds. It can spread it's seeds by wind or like the blackberry plant and spread it's seeds by use of birds and animals.

Seeds are the next generation, or offspring, and are the primary means by which a species ensures it's continuation. The production of many tiny flowers on a single plant is called inflorescence. Besides being the reproductive organs of flowering plants, flowers have been used by humans all across the world to beautify their surroundings and as a source of food.

Every flower has a specific design which helps the transfer of it's pollen in the most efficient way possible. Some types of flowers are self pollinated, such as various types of sativas, while others require pollination by insects. Plants, such as many types of mints or clover, attract and use bees, bats, birds, etc. to transfer pollen from one flower to another.

Most flowers have glands called nectaries on various parts that attract insects such as bees. Some flowers have patterns referred to as nectar guides, that help insects like butterflies where to look for the sweet nectar. Flowers can also draw pollinators to them by using scent and color. And some flowers use a clever mimicry to draw pollinators to them. Many types of orchids produce flowers that look like a female bee in their coloration, scent, and their shape to draw the male bees to them.

A huge array of flower species are also specialized in their particular shape to have an arrangement of the stamens to make sure that the pollen grains are transferred to the bodies of the insect when it lands looking for what attracted it in the first place. By the insect's constant pursuit of the pollen, nectar, etc. from many different flowers of the same species, the insect transfers pollen to the various stigmas of each flower with that single minded precision to all of the flowers it lands on.

There are many flowers that spread pollen from one flower to the next by the use of wind. Many of the examples that use this method include Birch trees, Ragweed, Dandelions, Milkweed, etc. These plants have no real need to attract insects or other creatures to pollinate them and therefore tend to not have bright and showy flowers.

The male and female flowers are on the same plant with the male flowers having several long filaments ending in the stamens, and the female flowers having the long feathery stigmas. The pollen of entomophilous flowers, (flowers that need pollinators), have the tendency to be large-grained, rather sticky, and rich in necessary proteins, the anemophilous flower, (flowers that need no pollinators), pollen has tiny grains, is very light, non-sticky, and has little or no nutritional value to insects or other creatures.

Flowers are a beautiful and necessary part of our world. They can calm our minds and sooth our souls in an increasingly hectic age. Plant a garden and enjoy the natural beauty of flowers!

Tulips Growing

A Guide to Tulips Growing

Tulips come in many shapes and sizes and their wonderful colors bring joy to any garden. Tulips need to be planted in late fall or early winter for the best tulips growing. You need to plant them before the freezing weather because tulips need a cold period when they are dormant and resting between their shows. Alternatively, chill the bulbs in the refrigerator six to eight weeks before planting. When you transfer them to the ground, make sure you choose somewhere cool and deep, else they will heat up too quickly and might fail to flower.

You should ensure you choose the best quality tulip bulbs for successful tulips growing. If you fertilize the plantings every season and plant bulbs every few years, the results should be good.

Planting Tulips

Before planting your bulbs, work the ground well to about a foot in depth. Work in some manure, peat moss and compost if the soil is sandy or heavy. Wood ashes and bone meal are also good plant foods. You should use a couple of cups for every twenty bulbs. Planting depths depend on the soil but usually four to five inches is ideal for tulips growing. Make sure you place the bulbs pointed end first into the ground. Plant them about six inches away from each other because tulips look nicer is a group than individually. When you have planted the bulbs, water the ground well to settle the soil around them. Watering the plants early when the buds are rising can enhance the beauty of your tulips, making the stems taller and the heads bigger.

Caring for Growing Tulips

If the weather is severe, you should mulch the growing tulips after the first frost, with a good covering of grass clippings, pine boughs, leaves or straw. Remove this cover in early spring. If the weather is not too bad, the tulips won't need mulching.

If you don't cut all your tulips for an indoor display, you need to cut them when you notice them fading because seed pods will take food that would otherwise go to the bulb for the following year's flower growth. To get next year's tulips growing well, this is an important step.

Tulip Diseases

There are a number of diseases which can affect tulips. Blight causes brown flecks on the leaves and a tulip suffering with blight will often go gray after a couple of weeks. The flowers will go limp and become brown or gray. Infected bulbs should be burned so the disease doesn't spread.
Gray bulb rot can occur if the bulb is underground for too much time. If this happens in your tulip growing, the bulb will become too soggy to rise above the ground and your tulip will drown. Crown rot causes the bulb and flower to die but this is quite a rare problem in tulip growing.
Tulip growing is fairly easy as long as you are aware of how to take care of your growing tulips and the results are usually an amazing array of stunning, colorful flowers which everyone who sees your garden will admire!

growing hydroponics

Gardening can be a very popular hobby, especially in places with rich soil. However, for people who like to garden that live in places without rich soil or people who find it hard to bend low to the ground, there is hydroponics. Growing hydroponics can be quite rewarding as the plants easily grow without soil and the joy of gardening remains.

The items that are usually used in growing hydroponics are a self-contained growing container, plant support baskets, an inert material to anchor the roots (known as a growing medium), an air pump, nutrients, a pH kit, tubings, fittings, sample seeds, and instructions. These things are usually included in any hydroponics kit that is bought. The things that are not and may not be provided are things that any gardener needs to provide to plants. These are sufficient light, food, nutrients, carbon dioxide, water, heat, and fresh air.

Being that the plants are grown without soil, if any of those last needs are missing, the plants will die. The way that plants get nutrients is that they are fed directly to the plants' root systems. This allows the plants to focus on growth upward and promotes quicker growth. This became quite popular during World War II in order for more food to be produced.

There are different methods of delivering the food to the plants when growing hydroponics. Nutrient film is a oxygen rich nutrient solution that can be applied to the growing area. Drip watering is like it sounds. The water is applied to the plants in drips. There is also aeroponics. In this method, the plants are in the air and they are then sprayed with a water and nutrient solution. Ebb and flow means that the plants are watered with a flood and drain system. Passive systems actually let the plants determine when they need food and water rather than the gardener making these decisions.

When growing hydroponics, it is also important to provide the correct lighting. Sometimes hydroponics can simply be grown in the sunlight. However, this is not always the case. Growing lights are sold in order to provide the right brightness of light for the correct amounts of time the light is needed.

Even while these things sound great in some ways, it also probably sounds like a lot of work. Some people may be wondering why even choose to grow hydroponics. Hydroponics gives many advantages that normal gardening does not.

A few benefits of hydroponics are that a kit is easy to set up, operate, maintain, and control and this can be done year round anywhere - on rock, grass, soil, or any other type of land. Hydroponics gives higher and quicker yields, there are no soil diseases and no insecticides need to be used. There is no crop rotation needed, no weeding, no need for heavy machinery, and less waste created.

This results in a much cheaper way to garden with a higher output of the plants grown. This can be used in gardening centers and in at home for a hobby. No matter what, it gives enjoyment to those people who like to garden and do not want to deal with the soil and concerning themselves with the condition and pH of the soil in order to keep growing conditions ideal.

Tips For Growing Tomatoes In Containers

Successfully growing tomatoes is not limited to homeowners who are fortunate enough to own a large plot of ground. You, too, can enjoy full-flavored homegrown tomatoes if you live in an apartment or townhouse, even in the heart of the city. Growing tomatoes in containers is an easy way to employ your green fingers and enjoy fresh veggies no matter where you live. However, before you dash to the nursery to buy pots and seedlingss, there are a couple of things you should know about how to successfully grow tomatoes in containers.

Selecting Containers

The first consideration when you are choosing the pots for your container garden is size. While some crops, like onions and herbs will grow well in more shallow containers, most plants including tomatoes will do best in at least a five gallon pot that will provide adequate space for the root system. However, you are not limited to the traditional flower pots for your container tomato garden. Check out the variety of buckets, pails and window boxes. Look at recycling containers that you have around the home including wooden packing cases, large cooking pots, half wine barrels and more. The main factors to keep in mind when choosing your container are to choose a substance that is nontoxic, and will provide adequate drainage for your plants. If you are using a solid based pot you will need to add drainage holes at the bottom. If you choose a porous material like timber you will be able to line the timber with plastic to make it waterproof but the timber will probably rot anyway. However, recycled timber containers can be useful for growing tomatoes for one season.

If you are using pots that have been used previously for other plants it is important to scrub them out well before use. This is necessary to remove any soil-born diseases that might be present.

Choosing your Location

Sunlight is important for the growth of all plants, and this includes your container-grown tomatoes as well. Most crops will require at least five hours of direct sunlight a day, so make sure your growing area can accommodate this need. Also try to choose a spot that is sheltered from the wind, since strong gusts can damage new plants and dry out the soil quickly. Once you have selected the area for your tomato containers it is time to start preparing the pots.

Preparing Potting Mix

Good soil and regular feedings are essential for container-grown tomatoes, since they will not be able to get nutrients from the ground. Peat-based potting mixes are generally a good choice for this style of gardening and you can find an excellent variety of commercial products available for this purpose at your local nursery or garden center.

Seeds Or Seedlings?

For growing tomatoes in containers it is usually easier to start with seedlings. Place the pots in the desired location and plant the seedlings directly into pots. Water well. Once your plants begin to grow add a slow-release fertilizer as directed to keep your plants thriving and your harvest coming. Regular watering is also important, since the soil in containers tends to dry out much more quickly than garden beds in the ground. Check your pots daily and water as required.
As your tomato plants grow they will require staking to prevent them falling over. Once the plants begin setting fruit they will become quite heavy and the stems will require support.
Homeowners with large gardens are not the only people who can enjoy home-grown, vine-ripened tomatoes all summer long. By growing tomatoes in containers you can enjoy this small gardening hobby no matter where you live.

Flower Wallpaper

Love Your Roses And Enjoy Them Too

Contain It: Ten Things to Think about when Growing Container Roses
If your space is at a premium, but you love roses, you may want to think about growing container roses.

1. Convenience of Location

Growing roses in containers had a lot of advantages. If you don't have a yard to garden in, or are limited to a balcony on your apartment, container gardening is perfect. Containers can be set on a patio or moved about as needed to give you the most decorative effect you can get. As long as you are gentle, it is fairly easy to move container roses. Larger containers can get quite heavy after they are filled up with plants and soil. If you are planting a large container, put it where you want it to sit before you begin to fill it. If you put it on a rolling stand, it is easier to move the container later or rotate it to get even sun exposure.

When choosing a spot for your container rose, remember your rose needs six hours of direct sun every day. You'll also want to keep in mind how easy it is to water your rose in your chosen location, and what kind of temperatures will your rose be exposed to in its container.

2. What Roses to Plant

Be aware that not every rose is going to adapt to growing in a container. Do some research on what varieties will grow well in a small space. Ask at your local garden center. They should be able to recommend many varieties that will be suitable.

3. Size of Your Container

Plants are usually planted closer together in containers than they are in the ground. Be sure to leave enough room in the container for your rose to grow. It needs room for root growth and space for good air circulation. Many beginners to container planting make the mistake of planting their roses in containers that are really too small. They end up repotting quickly as the roses outgrow the original pot.

4. Type of Containers

There are a lot of different containers to choose from for your roses. While most roses come in perfectly usable plastic pots, remember that black and other dark colored plastic containers will absorb heat and dry out the soil much more quickly than lighter colored pots. Ceramic and wooden pots are also good choices. You can find decorative terra cotta pots at many garden centers, but they lose water more quickly than some other types of pots. Be sure you choose one that is practical as well as decorative. Consider the size of your rose, the color and the surroundings in which it will sit when choosing your pot.

5. Drainage

Be sure the container you select has good drainage. No matter how pretty a pot is, if it doesn't have enough holes for the excess water to flow through, your rose will not thrive.

6. Soil Mixture

It is essential to provide a high quality soil mix. You can find a perfect pre-mixed soil at your garden center, or you can mix your own with compost and top soil.

7. Watering

Be sure you don't overwater your rose. Underwatering it can be just as disastrous. Remember that water will drain out much faster from a pot than it does in the ground. If you have roses in hanging baskets, they will need to be watered much more frequently than other kinds of containers. Hanging baskets lose a lot more water than other containers. Try not to get a lot of extra water on the leaves of your rose.

8. Feeding

Dilute the food you feed your container roses. You may need to feed more often since the water draining from the bottom of the pot will carry fertilizer with it.

9. Grooming and Pruning Your Roses

Always inspect your roses for signs of pests and disease. This is extremely important if your roses are located inside. Remove all old blossoms and prune out the old canes.

10. Watch the Temperature

It makes sense that a rose in a container is going to be more sensitive to heat and cold than if it were planted in the ground. Give them a little extra care and they will continue to thrive. Protect them from freezing by bringing them into a protected area or bring them indoors for the winter.

Home and garden tools info

Home and garden tools info

Installing garden and home decor is a great way to make your garden and home appealing, relaxing, and attractive. place to visit. Before you enter your house, you see the front lawn and garden. By creating a welcoming and inviting atmosphere in your garden. You are creating a warm welcoming introduction to your home. Not only that there are times when you just want to spend time entertaining or getting a little R&R in your garden, so it's fun to keep it pleasing to everyone's taste.

In choosing garden and home decor, first you have to know what you want and what style you are looking for. One way of determining which decor to buy is by setting a theme to your garden. Think about what you would like your garden to look like. What accessories you would like to see, and what plants and trees you would like to add. Here are some of the theme ideas that you can incorporate with your garden and home decor: egyptian, butterfly, water, japanese, temple, and african.

After you choosing your theme, you can now make a list of products that are wonderful items to compliment your garden and home. Some of these items can be flowers and flowerpots, planter pots, birdhouses, fountains, wind chimes, garden shelves, incense, garden angels, plant stands, flower vases, and statues.

Decorating your garden and home can be very challenging and you have to use your best ability to come up with a truly pleasing garden. Before you make any purchases, see to it that your garden tools are in the best and upmost shape for use.
*A garden tool is any one of many tools made for gardens and gardening and overlaps with the range of tools made for agriculture and horticulture. Garden tools can also be hand tools and power tools.*

It's Mid-Summer and It's Too Hot to Plant . . . Right???

It's Mid-Summer and It's Too Hot to Plant . . . Right???

Well, it may be too hot for YOU to plant, but it is certainly not too hot for perennials!
In fact, summer is one of the biggest planting times at Andr� Viette Farm & Nursery, where we plant hundreds of thousands of pots and thousands of species of perennials.
The old idea of planting only in the spring and fall and never in the summer is a big fallacy! Many things have changed and had a great impact on horticulture in the past years, but the biggest change has been the advent of the plastic pot!

When I was a child, we only had bagged and burlapped plants and many things could not be planted in the summer. Summer planting was limited to only those plants which could be safely transplanted during the heat.

Plastic pots mean little shock to the the plants resulting from transplanting and it has revolutionized gardening in America. You can now have an "instant garden". Most full service garden centers have a huge selection of annuals, perennials, trees, and shrubs in plastic pots.
If it were true that we cannot plant in the summer, there would be no flowers or gardens in tropical places where it is summer all the time. No Hibiscus or Bougainvillea in Miami, Florida!
So consider the summertime a wonderful time to plant and remember - good soil is essential for creating a beautiful garden!

Garden Wallpaper

Gardening on the Internet: Bookmarks to Keep

Dear reader, please note: Thank you for visiting my Cottage Garden topic and reading my columns, published here from February 1997 through spring 2003! I regret I am no longer actively editing or contributing to this suite101.com topic as of mid-2003. Happy Gardening! This Cottage Garden column was written by Barbara M. Martin and is Copyrighted by Barbara M. Martin. It may not be altered or copied or published elsewhere in whole or in part without specific permission from the author.

I was recently invited to do a presentation about gardening on the internet for a regional meeting of the Garden Writers Association of America (GWAA). As a supplement to the talk, I have developed this listing of some of my personal bookmarks and internet favorites related to gardening. For the sake of illustration, I have included examples of several different genres of sites, as well.

This "little" collection of links is not intended to be a complete or comprehensive listing of sites I find interesting or useful, but it should provide a sampling, an inkling, of what is "out there" to be explored.
Many of these sites have become my bookmarked "shortcuts" through trial and error; some have simply impressed me by their professionalism or by the absolute value of their content.

Gardening Holiday Gift Ideas

Gift Ideas for the gardening enthusiast.
Gardening gift ideas are abundant. If you have a gardening friend or loved one that you're shopping for this holiday season, keep two things in mind. One, when it's cold outside, we can think of nothing other than what we want to accomplish in the garden this coming Spring. And two, unfortunately, for the most part, most gardener's partners don't share their gardening enthusiasm as much, so we could use a little help with the gardening chores that lie ahead. This gives you, the gift giver, basically two choices when purchasing gifts for your gardener this holiday season. You could buy something to help your gardener get rolling this coming Spring, or you could give them a gift that will make their gardening chores a little easier.
Gardening books are a wise choice for a lot of gardeners. There is always something new and exciting to learn about gardening. Some gardeners may be interested in organic gardening or vegetable gardening. Some may be trying to improve their landscape or they may be interested in adding a greenhouse so that they can get a jump on the gardening season. There are also all sorts of books available for those that are particularly interested in flower gardening.
If books won't interest your gardener, how about a gift certificate for plants this coming Spring. More and more nurseries and garden outlets are offering gift certificates for plants and garden supplies. What joy you will bring to your gardener when they open that envelope and see that gardening gift certificate. Why, they can add some new plants to the garden bed this Spring or get that garden tool that they've had their eye on for quite some time.
Maybe your gardener friend is a bird watcher. They will most likely graciously receive a new bird feeder or birdhouse that will attract more birds to their garden this year. Throw in a bag of bird seed and a block of suet and it will certainly sweeten the pot.
Your gardener may be the organic type. They know that the food they grow is more healthy than the stuff you find at the supermarket. Some good choices for these gardeners might be a compost bin or some quality garden tools. Or how about some heirlooms seeds they may have told you about. You were listening, weren't you?
Some gardeners seem to really enjoy garden ornaments. If your gardener has a few ornaments in their garden, something as simple as a garden globe or statuary may fit right into their garden scheme. Just be sure and feel them out on what they like.
If your gardener friend lives in an apartment, something as simple as a decorative pot or window planter could make the perfect holiday gift. A small trellis that fits inside a pot might also be another option. This might give them the opportunity to grow some clematis or some other vine that they might not have had the chance to grow before. Something to get them through the cold winter months might be a mini herb garden that they could grow on their windowsill.
Whatever gift you choose to give your gardener this holiday season, know that no matter what you give, they will be thankful that you thought of them and took time out of your day to do something special for them. Because that's what this holiday season is really about.

Chiming In for Chives

By Tamara Galbraith

One of the easiest (too easy, for some) perennial herbs to grow is allium schoenoprasum, commonly known as onion chives.
Every herb gardener or fan of the loaded baked potato should have, at the very least, a pot of chives to clip from now and again. In fact, this clumping, grass-like plant is a wonderful seasoning for many foods, including eggs, soups and salads.

Keep the pretty pink flowers clipped off when growing the plant for culinary use, however, to ensure the foliage gets the best flavor. (The flowers make a lovely vinegar.) Removing the flowers also prevents the chives from reseeding and spreading, which some gardeners may find to be a problem.

Dividing the clumps and pulling out the old brown foliage every year will also go a long way in keeping your chives tidy and under control. They require little else, except full sun, well-drained soil and the occasional baked potato to bask upon.

Tree Pruning Tips

There are two kinds of winter gardening. The first method usually starts in January as the gardening catalogs begin to arrive in the mail. This type of gardening is as easy as sitting in your favorite chair, browsing the catalogs, and either dreaming about what you're going to do this spring, or actually drawing designs for the gardens you intend to work on.

The second type of winter gardening is to actually get out in the yard and do a little work. Of course if it's bitter cold, you'd be better off waiting for a good day. Winter is a good time to do some pruning if the temperatures are around 30 degrees or so. I don't recommend pruning if it's considerably below freezing because the wood is brittle and will shatter when you make a cut.
One of the advantages of pruning during the winter is that you can see much better what needs to be cut out and what should stay. At least that's true with deciduous plants. The other advantage is that the plants are dormant, and won't mind you doing a little work on them.
Ornamental trees should be pruned to remove competing branches. Weeping Cherries, Flowering Dogwoods, Flowering Crabapples etc. have a tendency to send branches in many different directions. It is your job to decide how you want the plant to look, and then start pruning to achieve that look.

But first stick your head inside the tree and see what you can eliminate from there. This is like looking under the hood, and when you do you'll see a lot of small branches that have been starved of sunlight, that certainly don't add anything to the plant, they are just there, and should be cut out. Any branch that is growing toward the center of the tree where it will get little sunlight should be cut out. Where there are two branches that are crossing, one of them should be eliminated. Once you get the inside of the plant cleaned up, you can start shaping the outside.
Shaping the outside is actually quite easy. Just picture how you want the plant to look, and picture imaginary lines of the finished outline of the plant. Cut off anything that is outside of these imaginary lines. It is also important to cut the tips of branches that have not yet reached these imaginary lines in order to force the plant to fill out.

For the most part plants have two kinds of growth. Terminal branches and lateral branches. Each branch has one terminal bud at the very end, and many lateral branches along the sides. The terminal buds grow in an outward direction away from the plant. Left uncut they just keep growing in the same direction, and the plant grows tall and very thin. That's why the trees in the woods are so thin and not very attractive.

When you cut a branch on a plant, the plant sets new buds just below where you cut. When you remove the terminal bud, the plant will set multiple buds. This is how you make a plant nice and full. Don't be afraid to trim your plants, they will be much nicer because of it. The more you trim them, the fuller they become.

Lots of people have a real problem with this. They just can't bring themselves to prune. Especially when it comes to plants like Japanese Red Maples. It kills them to even think about pruning a plant like this. Just do it! You'll have a beautiful plant because of it.

Look at the plant objectively. If you see a branch that looks like it's growing too far in the wrong direction, cut it. If you make a mistake it will grow back. Not pruning is the only mistake you can make. I hope this helps and doesn't get you in trouble with your significant other. Many a family feud has started over pruning.

Hazardous Tree Prevention

How much attention do you give the trees in your yard? For many homeowners, the answer is none. Many of us believe that trees are a part of nature and do not require any maintenance or upkeep. While this may be true of trees deep within the forest, trees sharing our civilized society with us are faced with abundant external influences. A tree that has incurred damage from human interference or environmental forces can fail and become a safety hazard to people, automobiles and buildings.
Proper planting, maintenance and care can prevent a tree from becoming hazardous in many cases. Here we address a few of the preventable circumstances that can cause a tree to become hazardous:
-Planting mistakes. Even with the best of intentions, a person without tree care knowledge and experience can cause more harm than good when planting a tree. Some common mistakes include planting in the wrong season or soil conditions, inappropriate hole depth and planting too close to buildings, sidewalks or other structures. When a tree is planted, its anticipated mature size as well as the location of sidewalks, driveways, buildings, power lines and future obstructions must be considered.
-Amateur maintenance. While any attempt to maintain your trees may be appreciated, there are potential dangers associated with do-it-yourself tree care. Though pruning may seem like an innocent enough endeavor, improper pruning can lead to tree disease and death. Pruning branches flush with the trunk and using wound paint are two common mistakes, both of which stem from widely held misconceptions about proper pruning techniques. Topping, or removing portions of a tree’s canopy, is another mistake that can lead to disease and decay. Experts agree that topping impairs the health of trees and makes them more likely to become hazards.
-Future construction. Construction near an existing tree is a major threat to the tree’s health and can cause it to become hazardous. Damage may stem from the construction of a new structure, digging for utility lines or the addition of a road or driveway, to name a few. Damage to the tree itself or its roots as well as changes to the ground caused by construction can lead to the death of a tree. Trees can incur damage that leads them to become hazardous even in cases when symptoms are not immediately apparent. Trees that may have been subjected to damage should be inspected by a certified tree expert so that potential hazards can be identified and addressed.
Some visible signs that a tree may be hazardous include cracks, decay, cankers (sunken or missing bark), and weak structure. However, a tree can be a hazard without exhibiting any obvious signs. The tree’s location (such as being near pavement or concrete) and external threats (such as automobiles driving over the roots) must also be considered. If you own a tree in question, you are encouraged to consult with a local tree service expert for a Hazard Tree Inspection.

Summer Flowers - Its all about planning

Summer is a wonderful time for flowers, yet many gardens start to look bare of color or simply wilt when the summer heat strikes. That's because gardeners often plant for a spring flush. Those flowers that bloom in spring fade off by summer because the extra heat does not suit them.

Yet there are many beautiful blooms that come into their own with that extra summer heat, so adding these to your planting will keep your garden looking a riot of color throughout summer. Both annuals and perennials bloom beautifully in the summer heat so choose some of each.

Annuals must be planted every year as their name suggests. They are usually only good for one season, so require a bit more work. But occasionally you will get an annual to come up the second year. Sunflowers, cosmos, salvia and marigolds are favorite annuals for summer flowers. Snow in summer; coxcomb and the globe amaranth are three less common flowers that thrive in the heat of summer, while angelonia, perilla and the sun coleus also make good choices.

Perennials are those plants that last for more than one season. Some last for two years, while other types last for several years - or are permanent. If you choose perennials with a long blooming season you will get more enjoyment out of them. Not all perennials are as showy as annuals, but some, like azaleas are a mass of bloom, albeit for a short period of a few weeks.

Longer blooming perennials include Astilbe, purple coneflower, Gaillardia, Rudbeckia and various daylilies - but there are many more. Many times you can cut perennials back after the first bloom and they will bloom again. Tradescantia, perennial geraniums, salvias and veronicas will do this.

If you have a fence or trellis to cover, you could add some of those fantastic flowering vines for lush summer flowers. Black-eyed Susie with its cheerful orange flowers and jet black eyes will brighten up any garden, while the blue/mauve trumpets of the morning glory vine add a lovely blue haze. The night blooming moonflower will fill your garden with a glorious fragrance - there are many more to delight the heart of every gardener.

Bulbs need a whole book to describe their many delights. Dahlias come in all shapes, sizes and colors, from tiny, neat-pedaled balls to huge, shaggy flower heads and everything in between. They are hardy too; so don't pass up a chance to pop a dahlia tuber into your garden. Cannas, gladiolus and tuberose love sunny spots.

Growing Healthy Grass Not Healthy Weeds

Although weeds can be beautiful in the right situations, they can be annoying when they creep into areas that you don’t want them. Dandelions have a nice yellow flower, for example, but when you are trying to get a nice, clean, green yard, they can overrun the whole area. A weed is defined as a plant that is out of place. They tend to be very hardy and they grow and spread very quickly. Weeds can be very obvious since they are usually a different color or texture than the rest of your yard. They tend to take away from the overall appearance of your lawn. They will also use the water and nutrients that your grass needs, so your lawn may not be as healthy as it should be. The strength of weeds makes them tough to fight against.

You can begin treating your weed problem by identifying the specific species that are growing in your yard. You should first determine if the weeds are grassy or broadleaf. Grassy weeds are similar to grass, but they will be a different type than you are trying to grow. Broadleaf weeds are plants like yarrow, knotweed, chickweed, clover, ground ivy, thistle, and dandelions. Some of the weeds are annual, some are perennial, and some are biennial.

Once you know what types of weeds are infesting your lawn, you will be able to get rid of the unwanted intruders by treating the lawn. You don’t want to just kill the weeds, because they can easily come back. Instead, you must take excellent care of the grass and soil. Taking better care of the grass will, at the same time, help to prevent weeds. You need to make sure you are mowing at the correct height, watering the lawn the right amount each time, watering the lawn at the correct frequency, and fertilizing the lawn correctly. You should also aerify the soil from time to time. Proper lawn care will help your grass to grow thick and strong, which will deter weeds from growing.

Sometimes good care is not quite enough, though, and you will have to add chemicals as well. Herbicides can be used to help. There are several different types, such as preemergence herbicides and postmergence herbicides. Preemergence herbicides effect the seeds before they grow, while they are still germinating. You should use them 2 to 3 weeks before the seeds would sprout. This type of herbicide works well against annual weeds. Postmergence herbicides are used after the seeds have already sprouted. It works best sprayed, so it can seep into the leaves.

Selective postmergence herbicides do not damage grass, so they are commonly used to fight against annual, biennial, and perennial broadleaf weeds. They can kill other plants such as trees, shrubs, and flowers though, so be very careful when using it. You must use them in the right conditions. The temperature should be between 60-80 degrees F, with little to no wind, and with no rain forecasted for at least a couple of days. The last type of herbicide is non-selective postmergence herbicides. You should use this kind to treat specific areas that have grassy weed problems.

"Plants To Grow Old With" or "The Constant Battle"

By: S. Johnson

The following are a few paragraphs about the on going battle I had with some of my plants!

Way back when I was just starting to garden I excitedly gathered starts from here and there, and several times, when I asked people for a particular start, they, with raised eyebrow, would ask me if I was sure I wanted that plant as it could be invasive.

Naively, and just so thrilled to get a new start (I had garden fever bad Ha!), I said that wasn't a problem. Wow! Was I ever clueless! I had a lot to learn as to just how INVASIVE some plants could be and how hard some were to kill out.Following are a few short tales of the battles I waged with those wonderful starts I collected years ago.

Horseradish will be the first I'll mention, as it was one of the first starts I acquired. I found it to be a very worthy opponent. In some book about companion planting I read that horseradish was good to raise by potatoes, so I rushed out and found a start of it! Well, I’ve long since quit raising potatoes, but I still have a thriving supply of horseradish. Slow spreading, but, as far as I'm concerned, impossible to get rid of. When you dig it up any tiny pieces of root that remain will start new plants. I tried covering it with black plastic for two years and it just sent out shoots to come up in other places. I guess we will grow old together.

Wild Blackberry is the next opponent. I love blackberries, so I asked a friend who lives in the country for a start of hers.

With raised eyebrow she asked me "Are you sure you want this?” I assured her, "Oh yes, I'm going to train it to a trellis.” she just said ok with more raised eyebrows. (Are you laughing yet?) Train wild blackberry to a trellis, no such thing for me. For two years I had delicious berries but the thorns (from Hades) ripped me to shreds, and the underground runners were sending up new shoots in my tomato patch, my carrot patch, and in my neighbors yard, to their delight and mine. NOT! The more I cut them down the more they ran. It finally took cutting them to the ground (with ripped up body parts to accomplish this) and covering them with black plastic for four years to finally kill them out.This is one battle I won!!

Mint, of which I have three varieties, is sure to be another plant that I'll grow old with.

I got the Apple mint and Lemon mint from the same friend that gave me the start of blackberry, with an even stronger reaction. She warned me how aggressive and invasive mint could be.

I purchased the Peppermint from a retailer. I was sure I could contain the mint with some mulch and some of those four-inch barriers. I planted it by the walkways in my flower and herb gardens, as I thought the fragrance that would be released, as people brushed against it would be nice. That part of my plan did work. These plants do smell good when crushed, but believe me no four-inch barrier and mulch is going to hold mint in check!The Apple mint and the Peppermint spread by runners that just hopped over or dove under the barriers and through the mulch and ran wherever they choose. Each year I spend considerable time pulling it up out of the flower and herbs beds. Last year I turned my back on it for a while to long (as I was distracted with this computer) and ended up taking a weed eater to it,because it had completely taken over one flower bed. Then I had to get down and pull up the underground roots and runners. How it got into that bed is a mystery. That bed was at the opposite end of the garden. A word of warning! Any little piece of stem or root can and probably will start a new plant. The only way I would recommend raising mint is in escape proof containers. The Lemon mint self-seeds itself prolifically. I have it popping up in all the beds each spring.

Wild Passion Flower Vine, with its sweet fragrance and exotic blooms, is also one of those plants that spread by underground runners.When I got the start to this beauty I planted it by my front porch and set a trellis so it could climb it. I thought this would be a nice place for visitors to view the lovely bloom and enjoy the sweet smell of its blossoms. The problem here was that the vine wasn't content with staying by the trellis. It comes up in the shrubs,hedges, hostas, and hibiscus. It has spread to the neighbors yard again to their delight and mine NOT! It has spread all the way around to the other side of the house. God only knows where it will show up next.Honey Locust Tree, I can't forget this one. This tree has lovely clusters of pinkish-lavender blooms, but it also has a devilish habit of sending underground runners that pop up just where you usually don't want them. I've dug starts out of my horseradish, iris, comphrey, thyme, etc.Oh well, it does have lovely blooms...